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Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in oversized shimmering pantaloons, perceptible exclusively in my view. Youngsters play in a stone basin pretending to be mermaids, meanwhile in the next room resides a chatting legume in a display case, beside a imposing pile of bedding. It embodies the universe of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s highly cherished writers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, on the island of Fyn in the southern region of this Nordic country, to explore the writer's enduring legacy in his home town many decades after his death, and to find a few fairytales of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

Andersen's House is the city’s exhibition space dedicated to the author, including his first home. A curator states that in past designs of the museum there was little focus on his fairytales. The writer’s life was explored, but The Little Mermaid were missing. For guests who visit this place seeking storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of the city center, redirecting a major road, made it possible to rethink how the city’s most famous son could be honored. An international design contest granted the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the project, with the innovative curatorial vision at the heart of the structure. The distinctive timber-clad museum with interwoven spiralling spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “Our goal was to design an environment where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we communicate similarly to the storyteller: with humour, satire and viewpoint,” notes the representative. Even the gardens take this approach: “It’s a garden for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's planned to make you feel small,” he says, a challenge realized by strategic landscaping, playing with height, size and multiple meandering routes in a deceptively small space.

Andersen's Impact

Andersen wrote two and a half autobiographies and frequently changed his story. The exhibition takes this approach to heart; often the views of his friends or excerpts of written messages are presented to politely doubt the author’s own version of incidents. “The author is the storyteller, but he's untrustworthy,” notes the representative. The outcome is a fascinating rapid journey of his personal story and work, thought processes and best-loved narratives. It is thought-provoking and fun, for mature visitors and children, with a bonus underground make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Visiting the Town

Back in the actual city, the small city of this Danish city is delightful, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings finished in cheerful shades. The Andersen legacy is everywhere: the street signals show the storyteller with his distinctive characteristic hat, brass footprints provide a complimentary pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this focus culminates with the annual storytelling event, which celebrates the writer's impact through art, performance, theatre and music.

During my visit, the seven-day festival had 500 shows, the majority were without charge. While visiting this place, I encounter artistic acrobats, fantastical beings and an author double telling stories. I listen to empowering poetry and see an amazing late-night performance including graceful performers coming down from the town hall and dangling from a crane. Upcoming events during the season are lectures, family art workshops and, expanding the oral history past the author, the city’s annual wonder event.

All good enchanted locations need a castle, and this region boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes across the island

Biking Adventures

Similar to much of the country, bikes are the best way to navigate in Odense and a “bike path” winds through the city centre. From Hotel Odeon, I pedal to the free port-side aquatic facility, then beyond the city for a circuit around the nearby islet, a small island joined by a bridge to the larger island. Town dwellers picnic here in the evening, or enjoy a tranquil moment fishing, water sports or swimming.

In town, I dine at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is derived from the writer's motifs and stories. The literary work the national ode appears at the restaurant, and manager the restaurateur shares excerpts, presented in English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience frequent in my time in Odense, the fynbo love a yarn and it seems that sharing tales is constantly on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a castle, and the island features 123 castles and stately homes across the island. Taking day trips from Odense, I explore the historic fortress, the continent's best-preserved historic fortress. Despite parts are accessible to the public, the castle is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his wife, the princess. I ponder if she would notice a pea through a stack of {mattresses